Riding in Europe — Yeah!  ...page 2

3. Parlez vous...? A big concern many people have is speaking the language in a foreign country. While some knowledge of the local lingo is definitely helpful, you can generally get by with even the most minimal skills. Consider who your primary contacts are going to be in another country: hoteliers and restauranteurs. In both cases (and in a many more cases) the subject matter is closely bounded, and the people you will deal with have done this all before. Even if the person at the front desk doesn't understand any English, they know you're there to get a room. How many beds, how many nights? Shower or bath?
     Of course, it's just basic good manners to learn hello, goodbye, please and thank you. The very next thing to learn is do you speak English? From there on, the numbers are helpful and then you're into topics of food, lodging, bikes, and directions. If you aren't fluent, you probably aren't going to get into a discussion about impressionist painting or Göthe with the locals, but that doesn't mean you can't have meaningful interactions. A lot of people may want to try out their English on you. If you have a moderate understanding of the language, you can easily spend a pleasant evening in a pub this way.
4. Packaged Tour or Go It Alone? As I mentioned before, a tour is the way to maximize your time seeing a foreign land. It's also a good starting point the first time out. And a lot of the tour operators understand that not everyone wants to ride in a single file to very specific points that they have chosen. Most invite you to look over their route and will help you if you have another idea, so long as you're going to get to the next hotel that night. So, you land at the airport, they pick you up, you get a night to recuperate, and then you're on the road. No muss, no fuss.
     A lot of people like to roll their own, however. They want to go somewhere that the tours don't go, and they want more interaction with the locals. Tours can really isolate you from the people and culture of the place you're visiting, because they work so hard to make sure everything goes smoothly. And getting around on your own wits turns a vacation into an adventure. In Europe, a very civilized place, you're not likely to get into a lot of trouble, anyway. But because you'll have to handle all of the arrangements yourself, you may not move along as quickly. If you don't do your research you could end up at some sight that's closed that day, for example. So you may want to squeeze in a few days extra beyond the week or two of normal vacation, so you don't feel time pressured.
5. What Should I See? While better than cars, motorcycles, especially big touring bikes, are not a lot of fun in the tight, crowded, and confusingly-laid-out European cities. When seeing London or Paris, park the bike and take the Underground, Metro, buses and trams. You should be prepared to do a lot of walking, too, so it's a good idea to bring a pair of comfortable and sturdy shoes. A day pack is a good idea, too. The bike is at its best when you get out of town. Of course, everyone has to try out the Autobahn, put it in high and turn the throttle to the stop. Once you get that out of your system, then look for the secondary roads — just like you'd do in the US. Find the villages that have a small, interesting thing about them. (Like Meiringen, Switzerland, for example. Arthur Conan Doyle mentioned this town and set the death of his hero, Sherlock Holmes, above the nearby Reichenbach Falls. The Meiringeners probably didn't know about it for decades, but now there's a bronze statue in the park. And Meiringen is a pleasant town, with nice restaurants and the Aareschlucht, a near vertical cut that the Aare river makes through a mountain, nearby. The roads are pretty nice, too, considering that it's just off the route over Sustenpass and Grimselpass, two of the best passes in the Alps.)
     And that kind of leads where all motorcyclists want to go in Europe, sooner rather than later: the Alps. When you think you're going, you simply have to get Motorcycle Journeys Through the Alps and Corsica by John Hermann. It is extremely complete, the new edition is in color, and it throws in a lot of information about Corsica, which is becoming another can't-miss destination.
     My friend, David Brick, says:
   
     The classic alpine scenery - snowy granite peaks looming above blue lakes. green valleys, and postcard villages, all connected by perfect winding pavement - is found in Switzerland, as well as eastern France and western Austria. As one moves south and west towards the Mediterranean, the terrain becomes drier, the vegetation browner, and the pavement isn't quite as good. Going east, the altitude is lower in the Dolomites of NE Italy, but the rocky outcroppings are even more dramatic than the Swiss ones.
     The Alps are a wonderful place to ride...and you won't be alone on two wheels; the Alps are a playground for motorcyclists. Coming down the Timmelsjoch into Austria in 1996, only one vehicle in every dozen had four wheels. Your left hand will get tired from the waving.
     There's a significant difference in driver behavior in Europe. Because vehicles are more expensive to buy and operate, and drivers' licenses more difficult to obtain, European drivers take their driving more seriously than their U.S. brethren, and do a better job. Drivers are typically more aware of their surroundings, move more briskly, and don't have psychological issues about being passed. You will be shocked when, exiting an alpine hairpin, the Renault driver in front of you hugs the right side of the road so you can squirt by. The next time you come up behind a car in a hairpin, it'll probably happen again. This is a delightful experience! Motorcycles are accepted as part of the traffic stream, and their superior performance is accepted as well: you can filter to the front at a stop light - but your obligation is to move out smartly when the light turns so that you don't hold up everyone else. (You absoloutely cannot, however, split lanes or pass on the right when on the autoroutes or autobahn.)
6. What About Theft? You will find that there's a tremendous number of bikes on the road in Europe. They're everywhere. And there's a big black market for parts, too. Most Europeans seem to not only lock the forks but also have another lock to anchor the bike to a post or other very static object. I've been told by Swedes that their insurance doesn't apply if they don't have two extra locks on the bike. Once I was sitting in a square in Amsterdam, when a GS rider rode up and parked. He put a heavy chain through both wheels and around a post. Not 15 minutes later, a fellow walking by stopped to admire the bike. He moved the handlebars and saw that they were locked, and then looked at the chain. Then he moved on.
     OTOH, I've never carried a lock and rarely use the fork lock. I am starting to think I've been awfully lucky, though. A friend lost his bike to theft right outside his hotel. For overnight parking, it's good to find a hotel or B&B where you can park in a secured area. During the day, park where you can watch your bike from a cafe, or among other bikes, especially in the middle of other bikes.

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